Havana Club, in this case. Well, Bacardi, anyway.
So my parents are coming to visit tomorrow. I don’t know, maybe it’s a holiday or something. I figure what better way to prepare than to make sure I wake up hungover? (just kidding, mom (I hope)). I suppose I could try to tidy the place up or something, but that sounds boring, and I hope my apartment isn’t the highlight of their trip. Mostly I wanted to break out The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book again and take another shot at figuring out how people drank back in the days when even the hoboes wore suits. The “Cuban Concoctions” section particularly intrigues me; I imagine a Manhattan bar dropped into the tropics, posh sensibility creating new wonders with rum and exotic fruits. So with that in mind, I thought I’d begin at the beginning. The chapter starts with what was once the signature drink of Havana’s Hotel National:
Equal parts of Bacardi and Pineapple Juice
Squeeze of Lemon
Dash of Apricot Brandy
Ice; shake; strain
So right away I’m faced with a problem. I thought I remembered seeing apricot brandy before, but I was apparently mistaken. I guess I’ll have to visit one of those places with “warehouse” in the name sometime. The closest I could find was De Kuyper’s “Apricot flavored brandy,” which I suspect isn’t quite what they had in mind at the turn of the century. The De Kuyper’s, rather than being a distillation of fermented apricots, is an apricot infusion mixed with actual brandy and some other things, creating something that tastes almost like a very sweet, apricotty vermouth. The brand is also a bit low-rent as far as liqueurs go, but it’s probably close enough for the purposes of this experiment. I don’t know how they rolled in 1908, whether the apricot brandies available back then included the bitter pits, but as far as I can tell from the Internet the brandies sold today don’t, so I’ll assume that the only goal in this recipe is a little hint of sweet apricot flavor. The stuff with the picture of apricots on the bottle will do.
I mixed this drink with two jiggers each of rum and pineapple, a quarter lemon’s worth of juice and a little of the apricot brandy. And it tasted like pineapple. It was like a really boring tiki drink; I used light rum, so I don’t expect much flavor from that front, but the lemon and apricot were completely overwhelmed by that prickly fruit, making little more than a hard glass of juice. The original recipe calls for the cocktail to be strained into a tall glass, but without ice in this glass I noticed a second problem: I don’t really like warm pineapple juice. But I still have faith in this idea. The basic concept of the cocktail is to find the balance between three of the world’s essential flavors—sweet, bitter and boozy—and with some slight modifications I think I found something that better walks this line. A little less pineapple, a little more lemon and a dash of bitters made for something much more interesting. It perhaps wanders closer to a daiquiri as the pineapple gives way to the sour of the lemon, but the pineapple lends a new flavor not imagined in the syruped original, and the bitters offer a new thought entirely, creating something that feels like a martini for the beach. I retained the shaking, since I like how the shaken pineapple juice creates a creamy froth, but I poured the final result over more ice rather than into an empty glass. So with all of that in mind, I present to you the Embargo:
2 jiggers Bacardi
1 jigger pineapple juice
juice of half a lemon
dash Angostura
dash apricot brandy
ice, shake, strain into glass of ice
This drink is considerably less sweet than the National above, but I like to think that addition of the famed Trinidadian tincture is still in keeping with the tropical traditions. It’s something that stimulates the mind and soothes the soul. The pink bitters also create a drink that looks more like grapefruit juice than the simple yellow of the original, but I don’t think that’s such a bad change.
Skimming through some of the other recipes in the Waldorf-Astoria book, there seems to be no definite theme for Cuba. The drinks seem to follow the forms of the most basic of the early cocktails: mostly mixtures of varying amounts of vermouth, but with Bacardi instead of gin or bourbon. An orange or a lime appear here and there, but overall it feels like these are northern cocktails given a hasty island panache. I don’t know when exactly the Hotel National opened, but I suspect it was sometime after Cuba’s independence from Spain, so perhaps there wasn’t enough time in Cuba Libre before these recipes were collected to create new drinks appropriate to the local culture and ingredients. Or maybe the Mafia is to blame; I can’t recall that part of The Godfather Part II.
One of the few cocktails in this collection that survives today, the mojito, receives barely a mention, despite being one of the tastier libations passed down from that time. Perhaps I’ll start with mint next time.